Bed - stylish mahogany bed

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Overnight Success
A stylish mahogany bed to celebrate our 100th birthday.
With a look that combines traditional detailing and
construction with the clean lines of contemporary style, our
anniversary bed is sure to be the ideal centerpiece for just
about any bedroom decor. Like the entire POPULAR
MECHANICS anniversary furniture series, it's constructed
of solid mahogany, and has a clear finish so it will age
gracefully to a deep, warm glow. The design is based on
time-honored frame-and-panel construction, with
convenient rail hangers so the bed can be easily
disassembled. Decorative accents of pomele sapele veneer
and dark wenge give our bed a touch of distinction while
tying it to the other pieces in the series. These exotic
woods are available from mail-order suppliers such as A&M
Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St. N., Box 32040,
Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2;
www.amwoodinc.com.
The bed is built with a series of support slats that eliminate
the need for a box spring, and the dimensions we show will
handle a queen-size mattress. While mattresses vary in
thickness, one that's 8 in. thick will yield a 19-1/2-in.-high
bed. For a mattress of a different size or thickness, simply
adjust the dimensions as necessary.
MA
TERIALS LIST--BED
Key
No.
Size and description (use)
A
2
2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 31-1/4" mahogany
(post)
B
2
2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 21-1/4" mahogany
(post)
C
4
3/4 x 2-1/2 x 2-1/2" wenge (foot)
D
2
1-1/8 x 3 x 60-7/8" mahogany (top
rail)
E1
1
1-1/8 x 6 x 60-7/8" mahogany
(bottom rail)
E2
1
1-1/8 x 6-3/4 x 60-7/8" mahogany
(bottom rail)
F
1
1-1/8 x 6-3/4 x 60-7/8" mahogany
(mattress rail)
G1
4
1-1/8 x 3-1/8 x 6-1/2" mahogany (end
stile)
G2
10
1-1/8 x 3-1/8 x 6-1/2" mahogany
(stile)
H
12
1/2 x 5-3/4 x 7" plywood
I
as reqd.
pomele sapele veneer
J
2
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 8" poplar (support
block)
K
2
1 x 3-1/2 x 65-3/8" mahogany (cap)
L
2
1-1/8 x 6-3/4 x 79-3/8" mahogany
(side rail)
M
10
3/16 x 2 x 2" wenge (panel)
N
as reqd.
pomele sapele veneer
O
2
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 79-1/4" poplar
(support rail)
P
1
1-3/4 x 3-1/2 x 80-3/4" poplar
(support beam)
Q
16 3/4 x 4-3/8 x 60-5/8" poplar (slat)
R
as reqd. 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
S
4 2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
T
as reqd. 2-1/4" No. 8 fh woodscrew
Misc.
: 5" bedrail hangers, No. 125-062, available
from Woodworker's Supply, 1108 N. Glenn Rd.,
Casper, WY 82601; 800-645-9292; glue; 120-, 220-,
320-grit sandpaper; 4/0 steel wool; Waterlox Original
Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech
Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105).
Posts And End Frames
Rip and crosscut the posts to size. If you can't
find 3-in.-thick mahogany, glue up blanks from
thinner stock. Cut the wenge blocks to size, bore
and countersink a screwhole in each, and use
glue and screws to fasten them to the posts.
Then, cut a 1/2-in., 45° bevel around the bottom
of each wenge foot (Photo 1).
Next, lay out the locations of the mortises in the
posts for the rail tenons and bedrail hangers. Rout
the rail-tenon mortises with a 1/2-in. spiral up-
cutting bit and edge guide (Photo 2). Make two or
three passes to prevent overheating the bit.
Square the mortise ends with a sharp chisel.
After attaching each wenge foot to a post
with glue and a screw, use your table saw
to chamfer the edges.
Note that the mortises for the bedrail hangers
have deep recesses to accommodate the hanger
hooks. First, rout these deeper portions with a
1/4-in. bit. Square the ends and switch to a 5/8-
in.-dia. bit to rout the shallow portions. Again,
square the ends and test fit the hanger plates
(Photo 3). Bore pilot holes for mounting the
plates, but don't install them yet. Use a 45°
chamfer bit in the router table to cut the 3/8-in.
chamfers on the long edges of each bedpost
(Photo 4).
Rip mahogany stock to width for the headboard
and footboard rails and stiles. Crosscut the rails to
length, but leave the stile stock in long blanks at
this time. Set aside one blank for the outside
stiles that have a panel groove on only one edge.
Mount a dado blade in your table saw and adjust
the fence to cut a centered groove in the edge of
the stock. Clamp a plywood auxiliary table to the
Lay out the mortise positions in the posts,
and use a router with a straight bit and
edge guide to cut the joints.
saw table. Raise the dado blade through the
plywood to yield a zero-clearance opening around
the blade, and screw a featherboard to the table
to keep the stock tight against the rip fence. Then,
cut the panel grooves in the edges of the rail and
stile stock as required (Photo 5).
Next, crosscut the stiles to finished length, and
use the dado blade to cut the rail and stile tenons.
Clamp a scrap board to the table saw rip fence to
use as a stop (Photo 6). Readjust the blade
height to cut the tenon shoulders on the rail ends.
Note that the outside stiles on both the headboard
and footboard have haunched (notched) tenons.
Finally, rout the stile mortises in the rail grooves,
square the ends with a chisel and test fit the
tenons.
Rout the mortises in the posts for the rail-
hanger hardware. Then, test the fit and
bore screw pilot holes.
Use a chamfer bit in the router table to
shape a 3/8-in. chamfer along the long
edges of each bedpost.
Use a dado blade to cut the grooves in
the rails and stiles. A featherboard holds
the stock against the fence.
Clamp a scrap board to the rip fence to
act as a stop when cutting the tenons on
the ends of the rails and stiles.
Veneering The Panels
We used birch-veneer plywood as the core for our
veneered panels, but any hardwood-veneer panel
will be fine. Be sure to orient the grain on the core
stock so it's 90° to the face veneers. Since the
finished panels are small, prepare two large
panels, then cut the smaller panels from them.
Use a straightedge guide and veneer saw to cut
the veneer sheets to size (Photo 7). Make a
series of light passes--don't try to cut all the way
through with one pass, since the veneer can tear
or split.
Use a veneer saw and straightedge guide
to cut the veneers for the head-board and
footboard panels.
Next, cut the core stock to the exact size of the
veneer sheets and prepare 3/4-in.-thick cauls of
scrap plywood that are also this size. Finally, cut
sheets of wax or kraft paper to separate the
panels and cauls.
Use a foam roller to spread glue onto one surface
of each core panel, and then invert each core
onto a veneer sheet. Coat the exposed face with
glue and place another sheet of veneer on that
surface. Arrange the panels in a stack with paper
sheets between them as well as on the top and
bottom. Place the stack between the cauls and
apply clamps from the center toward both ends
(Photo 8).
After 2 hours, remove the clamps and place the
panels so air can circulate around all sides. The
Clamp two veneered panels in a stack
with cauls on the top and bottom. Apply
clamps from the center toward the ends.
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