Benchtop Bookcase

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1348
70
Online
Extras
1470
1348
MOULDING
70
280
348
Benchtop
317
1330
32
41
Bookcase
1438
38
54
261
54
16
29
optional change of face
MOULDING
29
332
With a different base and a few
moulding profile changes you can
give your bookcase an entirely new
appearance. It won’t take any addi-
tional work but you’ll notice a more
traditional look.
You can build the carcass, face
frames, and side frames as shown
in the article. Then add some cove
moulding changes to the top, base
and side panels. Since a few of the
dimensions have minor changes
to reflect the new look, be sure to
review the sizes of the aprons,
mouldings, and edging pieces
before you begin work.
TOP EDGING
. The top is built as
described in the article. But to
change the appearance I added a
bullnose to the
front edging (W)
and
side edging (X)
pieces. I made
a.
MOULDING
Glue and screw
moulding to top
frame and panel
with 8g x 32mm
c/s woodscrews
Glue and screw
top assembly
to case with
8g x 32mm c/s
woodscrews
the bullnose on the router table.
The technique I used is shown in
the first two boxes below.
Since you’ll be using the same
edging for the bottom of the book-
case, it’s a good time to cut
enough edging for both the top
and bottom and then add the bull-
nose treatments to each piece.
COVE MOULDING
. I next made
cove
moulding (T)
for the top and base
treatments to substitute for the
bevelled moulding in the original
project. The third box below
shows you how this is done.
SIDE PANELS
. Instead of bevelled
moulding around the side panels I
used a narrow
cove moulding
How-To:
Make A Bullnose & Cove Mouldings
MOULDING
12.7mm
12.7mm
12.7mm
16
18
12
3
16
6
16
Bullnose Top.
Mount a round
over bit in the router table 6mm
above the table and rout the top
edge of the workpiece.
Bullnose Bottom.
Next set the
round over bit 12mm above the
table. Then turn the workpiece
over and rout the bottom edge.
Cove Moulding.
Mount your
cove bit to sit 13mm above the
router table and rout a cove
along the side of the workpiece.
Narrow Cove Moulding.
Rout
a cove along each side of a wide
workpiece and then cut to the
desired width on your table saw.
Australian Woodsmith No. 41 Online Extras © 2005 August Home Publishing
 (N)
. You can see how this narrow
cove moulding was made using the
router and table saw in the last box
on the previous page The moulding
is then glued inside the side frame .
TOP ASSEMBLY
. One of the things
you’ll find different from the origi-
nal project description is the way in
which the top and bottom of the
bookcase are assembled and
screwed together. Let’s take a look
at the top assembly first.
The top is assembled in two
steps, as shown in detail ‘a’ on the
previous page. This allows for an
easy and secure assembly of the
top components of the bookcase.
The first step is to add glue and
then screw the cove moulding to
the bullnosed front and side edg-
ing from the bottom. Next you’ll
want to screw the top assembly to
the carcass from below, as shown
in detail ‘a’ on the previous page.
BASE APRON PROFILE
. I added a new
profile to the
base front apron (P)
.
The template at the bottom of the
page will give you the pattern of
this new profile. I used my jig saw
to cut this profile in the front
apron. Then base front and side
pieces are put together as
described in the article.
BASE ASSEMBLY
. The base of the
bookcase is assembled in three
steps as shown in detail ‘a’ at the
right. Again this allows easy
assembly and a secure fit.
First, screw the cove moulding to
the bottom edging pieces. Next
MOULDING
(16 X 16
cove
moulding)
54
BASE
FRONT
C
LEAT
1438
70
1470
332
25
1422
348
a.
16 x 16
Glue and screw
moulding frames
together with
8g x 32mm
c/s woodscrews
100
299
1458
Glue and screw
moulding to base
with 8g x 32mm
c/s woodscrews
Glue and
screw base
assembly to case
with 8g x 55mm
c/s woodscrews
342
BASE
SIDE
APRON
100
screw the base cleat to the apron
and bottom pieces. And finally, use
screws to secure the bottom edging
throughthecove moulding and into
the front filler already attached to
the carcass.
With the base securely fastened
to the carcass, all that’s left to do is
to cut the back panels to size and
screw them in place.
W
350
38
BASE FRONT APRON
PATTERN
100
25mm
25
150
Australian Woodsmith No. 41 Online Extras © 2005 August Home Publishing
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
A
Case Top/Bottom (2)
1346 x 292 x 18 - ply.
Q
Base Side Aprons (2)
342 x 100 x 18
B
Case Sides (2)
698 x 292 x 18 - ply.
R
Base Front Cleat (1)
1422 x 25 x 18
C
Case Centre Dividers (2)
656 x 292 x 18 - ply.
S
Base Side Cleats (2)
299 x 25 x 18
D
Case Upper Dividers (4)
287 x 292 x 18 - ply.
T
Upper/Lower Cove Moulding (2)
2200
rgh.
x 54 x 18
E
Case Horizontal Dividers (2)
661 x 292 x 18 - ply.
U
Top Panel (1)
1348 x 280 x 18 - ply.
F
Case Front Filler (1)
1334 x 18 x 18
V
Top Panel Back Edging (1)
1348 x 18 x 6
G
Face Frame Stiles (2)
698 x 36 x 18
W
Top/Bottom Front Edging (2)
1470 x 70 x 18
H
Face Frame Upper Muntins (3)
257 x 36 x 18
X
Top/Bottom Side Edging (4)
348 x 70 x 18
I
Face Frame Lower Muntin (1)
333 x 36 x 18
Y
Top Back Spacer (1)
1330 x 41 x 18
J
Face Frame Rails (3)
1334 x 36 x 18
Z
Back Panels (2)
680 x 685 x 6 - ply.
K
Side Frame Front Stiles (2)
698 x 54 x 18
L
Side Frame Back Stiles (2)
698 x 57 x 18
M
Side Frame Rails (4)
202 x 57 x 18
•
(59) 8g x 32mm c/s Woodscrews
•
(9) 8g x 38mm c/s Woodscrews
•
(10) 8g x 55mm c/s Woodscrews
•
(32) 6g x 20mm c/s Woodscrews
N
Side Frame Moulding (1)
3300
rgh.
x 16 x 16
O
Case Back Filler (1)
1370 x 18 x 18
P
Base Front Apron (1)
1458 x 100 x 18
1800 x 150 x 25 Cherry
1800 x 150 x 25 Cherry
2400 x 200 x 25 Cherry
2400 x 200 x 25 Cherry
W
X
X
2400 x 200 x 25 Cherry
2400 x 1200 x 18 Cherry Plywood
Australian Woodsmith No. 41 Online Extras © 2005 August Home Publishing
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