Bench - Outdoor Table and Bench, rzemiosło artystyczne, Projekty - stolarstwo

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84
OUTDOOR TABLE AND
BENCH
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
408
MATERIALS LIST--UMBRELLA TABLE AND
BENCH
Key No.
Size & Description (use)
A 4
2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 27" cedar (leg)
B 4
1 x 3 x 43 7/8" cedar (apron)
C 1
1 x 5 x 40 7/8" cedar (rail)
D 22 1 x 3 1/8 x 18 15/16" cedar (slats)
E 2
1 x 5 x 40 7/8" cedar (rail)
F 2
1 x 5 x 48 7/8" cedar (stile)
G 16 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 16 1/2" cedar (leg)
H 8
1 x 3 x 12" cedar (apron)
I 8
1 x 3 x 44 7/8" cedar (apron)
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
409
J
44
1 x 3 1/8 x 9" cedar (slats)
K
8
1 x 5 x 9" cedar (rail)
L
8
1 x 5 x 48 7/8" cedar (stile)
M
20
1 x 2 3/4 x 5 1/4" cedar (block)
N
40
2" No. 8 fh galvanized screw
O
48
3" No. 8 fh galvanized screw
Making The Parts
The table legs are cut from 4 x 4 stock (or they can be glued
up from thinner material). When using 4 x 4 stock, cut each
leg to rough length. Next, clamp a fence to the band saw
table, and rip the blanks to a 2 3/4 x 2 3/4-in. square
(Photo
1).
Then clamp the leg to a workbench, and use a razor-
sharp plane to remove the saw marks
(Photo 2).
Unless
you are very experienced with a hand plane, check the
workpiece frequently as you go. The edges of the leg must
remain square to one another. Remember that you are only
smoothing the surface, so do not remove too much material.
Rip the table leg stock out of a cedar 4 x 4. Clamp a temporary
rip fence to the band saw table to do this.
Clamp a table leg to a benchtop and remove saw marks with a hand
plane. To make a smooth cut, push the plane at an angle.
Use a miter gauge on the band saw to crosscut the leg
blanks to finished dimension
(Photo 3).
Since the bench legs are smaller than the table legs, it is a
better use of materials to glue them up from three pieces of
3/4-in.-thick stock. You can simplify the job if you plan to
make the blanks large enough to cut four legs from each
glued-up stack.
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
410
Crosscut the legs on the band saw. Here, a
shopmade crosscutting table and a miter gauge are
used to make the cut.
Rip and crosscut material for the leg blanks slightly
oversize, then use a foam roller to spread glue on the
mating surfaces of each piece. Assemble the pieces into a
stack, and clamp the pieces together
(Photo 4).
After about
20 minutes, scrape off the glue that has squeezed from the
joints, then allow the glue to fully set.
For the bench legs, spread glue on 3/4-in.-thick
stock. Lay disposable material under the pieces and
clamp them together.
Now use the table saw to rip the blanks to 21/4 in. wide,
and crosscut the bench legs to finished length.
Lay out the mortise locations in all the legs for the apron
joints. You can speed the process by clamping four legs
together with their ends perfectly aligned. Then, mark
across the stack using a square
(Photo 5).
Next, use the
router and edge guide to cut the leg mortises
(Photo 6).
It's
best to use a spiral up-cutting bit in the router because that
type of bit pulls the dust and chips out of the cut, and
reduces the strain on the motor. This also keeps the bit's
cutting edge cooler.
Rip and crosscut the individual bench legs to size, and then clamp
them together. Mark out mortise locations on the legs.
Using a spiral up-cutting bit in a plunge router, cut
the table leg mortises. Two legs clamped together
provide a stable base.
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
411
Rip and crosscut 1-in.-thick stock for the table and bench
aprons as well as for the top frames and slats. Install dado
blades in the table saw, and then use the miter gauge to
guide the workpiece over the saw blades when cutting
tenons
(Photo 7).
Note that you can use the rip fence as a
stop to gauge the tenon length. Since the tenons are 1 in.
long, you need to make two passes to complete each
cheek.
Use a dado blade setup in the table saw to cut the tenons on the
apron pieces. Butt each apron to the fence, and make the cut.
Cut the tenons across the width of each workpiece, then
adjust the blade height and move each workpiece over the
blade on edge to cut the shoulder
(Photo 8).
Clamp each
workpiece upright in a vise and gently round over the
tenon's edges using a wood rasp
(Photo 9).
To cut the shoulders on a tenon, stand the apron up,
and hold it firmly to the miter gauge. Butt it to the
fence and make the cut.
Round off a tenon with a rasp. The tenon’s radius matches the radius
left by the spiral up-cutting bit used to cut the mortise.
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
412
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